There are not many better ways to get to know your life partner than to test the relationship in a foreign country… on a budget… living in a van… for three months. During our time in Oceania, Jonathan and I had the pleasure of keeping company with two distinctly different camper vans, lovingly named Darla and McFly.
Darla was our companion in New Zealand where she boisterously carried us 2,500 miles around the North and South islands of New Zealand. She was a no-frills lady who had definitely been around the block before. Darla responded best to encouraging words and dashboard pets when attempting hill ascents and was keen on letting all other campers know that she was in attendance everytime her sliding door needed to be opened or closed. She was spacious (it’s all relative right?) and though she had trouble starting on cold mornings, she was faithful and dependable for six weeks of adventure. Darla’s favorite road trip moments were lunch breaks at Lake Wanaka and days spent at the beach on the West coast of the South Island.
Darla showing off her beach bodyCheers at Lake WanakaHappy hour
McFly was sleek, shiny, and bright orange. Though smaller than Darla, he was perfectly converted to allow for maximum storage, comfort (again with the relativity), and ease. McFly guided us 2,100 miles up the East coast of Australia and though his radio never worked, he made up for it by coming with a portible DVD player! McFly loved nights where he could open up his skylight to let the Southern sky (some of the best stars we have ever seen!) shine in while he securely protected his passengers from the deadly spiders, snakes, and crocodiles that enhabited their campsites. McFly’s favorite road trip moments included seeing the World’s Largest Mango and the mornings spent cooking gourmet breakfasts behind gas stations with the long-distance truck drivers.
Road trip necessityMcFly in the sunOmlet ala diesel
There were some major advantages to our vagabond lifestyle:
Ultimate freedom to explore at our own pace, pull over when we liked, and bascially just wing it most days
We are now masters of the one-pot meal and have developed pretty good recipes for Thai green curry, Mexican quinoa, spaghetti bolognese, and vegetable soup
Mmm gnocchi!
Cooking in the rain
Our cribbage and hackysack skills have improved exponentially
Knowing where you are going to sleep each night after a day of hiking and exploring is one of the greatest feelings when traveling
And there were some definite difficulties straight-up-not-so-fun moments:
The smell in the van after a hot sweaty day was immediately followed by a day of non-stop rain
Trying to keep food from spoiling when the temperature outside hits 100 degrees
The pantry
Attempting to convince ourselves that going to McDonalds (one of the few places with wifi) 3-4 times a week is not a failure in traveling…or in life
Pre-sunrise wake up calls by sheep, cows, tractor trailers, and worst of all, laughing kookaburras (google this little guy!)
Not always sunshine and rainbows
Ultimately though, Jonathan and I had a blast traveling this way and would not hesitate to recommend seeing these countries in the company of Darla and McFly.
The people, the animals, and the overall atmosphere of New Zealand not only forces a smile on your face, but gives you a sense of ease and comfort.
A NZ vineyard’s welcome lamb (True story!)
Of course… I know this is the country of crazy adrenaline sports (which we sadly could not afford this trip) and the smiling, yet tough, local Kiwis can all MacGyver anything from a tractor to a guitar. But in all honesty, New Zealand gave us a feeling similar to one you might have while sitting in the grass holding a baby bunny. It is that feeling where everything is soft and you cannot conceive the possibility that anything would hurt you. This is a land of no predators (their most dangerous animal is a non native wild pig) where flightless, defenseless birds thrive, and their current national defense is targeting an invasive tree possum.
Countless flightless birds like this Takahe survive with ease
This is, without a doubt, one of the most peaceful and serene countries we have visited. Our six weeks in New Zealand filled us with fuzzy feelings, wonderful family dinners, and plenty of restful afternoons soaking up the tranquility that surrounded us.
Because we decided to rent a campervan (whom we named Darla) for our six weeks in New Zealand, our flexibility was unlimited (though our personal space and meal variety took quite the hit). It allowed us time for refreshing and familiar nights reconnecting with old friends while chomping on pizza and letting New Zealand’s version of “The Bachelor” play in the background. It was joyful and carefree to mosey along pastoral roads jumping from farm to campground with undisturbed singalongs and abundant road-trip snacks. And it was so much damn fun taking advice as it came and letting ourselves forget this was not going to last forever.
An hour later, they all finally crossed the roadBreak for a little hike
We bumbled along spending many hours playing cards and reading in the sun while occasionally springing for a taste of extravagance here and there (deserved after 6 weeks of living in a van). One morning, after a few nights of cooking and camping on the beach, we splurged on a helicopter ride (a first for both of us!) to the middle of Fox Glacier. Beach to glacier overnight…? Only in New Zealand. After a whirlwind of a ride where blinking was limited so as not to miss a single view, we landed on the ice at the top of the glacier in the dominating shadow of Mt. Cook (New Zealand’s highest peak). Exploring a piece of the world accessed this way is a thrilling, absolutely wild feeling. Click to get a better look.
On the Tasman Glacier
Mt. Cook rising
Focused pilot
Unreal feeling
Ready to fly
A few of our favorite days were spent in the small city of Dunedin visiting Bill, a wonderful retired cattle rancher we met while on safari in South Africa. In true Kiwi fashion, Bill invited us to visit “if we made it down that way” and so, months later, loaded with time and a trusty van, “down that way” we went. Planning on staying just for an evening to visit Bill, we were surprised to find ourselves still in Dunedin four days later. Bill, a native and definitely well-loved man in town, set us up on an adventure to see the pride of Dunedin, their native (GIANT) Albatross birds.
Just giving a little size perspectiveBabies!!
He spent the rest of the time bringing us along on his weekly outings as if we were members of his own family. We had a great time! We engaged in “appropriate chicken rearing” discussions with ‘Bill’s egg guy’ at the Farmer’s Market, learned the art of lawn-bowling,
My sad attemptA true professional
joined “The Zoo” (student section) at the professional rugby match on Friday night,
Highlanders Win!!Scrum!
fell asleep in recliners after evenings of fish and chips, and woke up early to stand on the sideline and help “coach” Bill’s neighborhood rugby team. The retired life of a Kiwi…sigh.
Our farewell dinnerSideline coaching is international
When you are in New Zealand, things that should frighten you… just don’t. For example, caves. Known for their cold, damp, darkness, caves do not often give me the fuzzy feeling of the bunny I mentioned earlier. But in New Zealand, they have caves that are so delightful, they could serve as homes to families of fairies. Thanks to the unique and incredible glow-worms, walking (or in our case tubing) in New Zealand caves, feels like floating in Van Gough’s “Starry Night” on your way to the Milky Way.
We were in Te Tahi Cave, where glow-worms live in abundance, hanging their sticky feeding lines above the cave’s river and catching insects that foolishly enter, attracted to the glow-worms’ self-produced light. We sat under their twinkle and watched as an unlucky fly was caught by the sticky string and quickly reeled in by the worm for consumption. It was straight out of National Geographic – absolutely wild! We don’t have nearly a nice enough camera (nor the skills) required to take photos of these amazing creatures, so I am going to steal from the internet to give y’all an idea of how absolutely, out-of-control, crazy nature is.
The beaded strings hangingThis is SERIOUSLY what it looked like!
A part of New Zealand’s history that begins with the all-too-familiar story of indigenous people suffering from colonialism, discrimination, and oppression is transforming into a present reality of reconciliation and revitalization. Everyday, Jonathan and I could see the efforts and successes of New Zealand’s integrated society. We passed public signs posted in both English and Maori, listened to the Maori radio and television channels, and watched with intimidation as the pride of New Zealand, the All Blacks rugby team, perform the Haka (the traditional Maori “dance of challenge”) moments before their upcoming match. Though far from perfect, the Maori are finding their voice and an increasingly important place in New Zealand policy, tradition, and international influence. Seeing this transformation in process, I felt embarrassed thinking about how poor of a job we were doing back home working with our Native American populations. I wonder if communication has or could exist between New Zealand and the United States to encourage growth and unification…
Jonathan and I visited the living Maori village of Whakarewarewa, home to the Tuhourangi/Ngati Wahiao tribes, for a glimpse into the history, traditions, and current life of the Maori. The ancestors of the Maori came to New Zealand at least eight centuries ago from East Polynesia, traveling in ocean-going canoes known as waka. They traveled throughout New Zealand with many settling in the valley between two impressive lakes surrounded by volcanoes and geothermal activity, today known as Rotorua.
Hot springs in Rotorua
The Maori in the Whakarewarewa village continue to live in harmony with this unique environment. They bath and soak in the heated waters and cook underground in dug out ovens, affectionately known as “The Village Crockpots”. Through dance, language, and tradition, the Maori culture delighted us, but it was their passion to fight for reclamation and now unity that truly impressed us.
The Marae or Meeting House
The top of the Marae is the Koruru
Base of a Maori Pouwhenua
Underground cooking
With the performers
Tongue out for intimidation
Finally, Jonathan would kill me if I concluded my posts on New Zealand without mentioning our enchanting day spent at Hobbiton. For those of you who are not Lord of the Rings fans, this is the set used in Peter Jackson’s movie renditions of the Lord of the Rings trilogy and The Hobbit. For those of you who are fans… be jealous! While exploring the impressive movie set and looking out on a real life shire, I could not help but think, of course Hobbits would live in New Zealand! Only in the comfort and safety of New Zealand countryside could anything with Tolkien’s descriptors for hobbits: a height of between two and four feet, a tendency towards chubbiness, a delight when wearing bright colors, a love for food and drink (eating a mere six times per day), a love of laughter and celebration, and truly impressed by good tilled earth exist. Click on the photos for a closer look.
Taken at Weta studio
Taken at Weta studio
Delightful does not even begin to explain our time in New Zealand. I hope that everyone gets a chance to explore this country someday! Without a doubt the land and the people will be waiting to welcome you with a hearty “Kia Ora!”, (translated as “be well”) as they show off their country.
When asked, “Which place has been your favorite?” Jonathan and I simultaneously state (more factually than emphatically), “New Zealand.” Why no exclamation mark? Because New Zealand took this honor in a landslide victory. This country’s dynamic beauty caused us to constantly pick our jaws up from the floor while attempting to find synonyms for “Whoa!!” You could employ any and every positive adjective when trying to describe the landscape of New Zealand. Ultimately though, I believe only one word is acceptable and even then, only one definition of that word. The word is sublime and the definition comes from the philosopher Immanuel Kant (though introduced to me by the author Mark Adams) . While writing this post and revisiting our pathetic attempts to capture the sheer awesomeness of New Zealand’s nature, I constantly returned to this word and this definition in hopes of re-living the simultaneous feelings of comforting humility and daunting greatness.
“There is a difference between beautiful and sublime. Sublime means something limitless, an aesthetically pleasing entity so huge that it makes the perceiver’s head hurt.”
New Zealand is not just beautiful, it is sublime.
Jonathan and I hiked over 120 miles in New Zealand, tackling three of their “Great Walks” which allowed us to gaze at insane vistas while absorbing the endless details nature provides. The craziest part is, even after six weeks on these two small islands, we feel we have barely scratched the surface… and we cannot wait to return.
Our Great Walk introduction was the four-day, 34 mile trek through Milford Sound, known famously as “The finest walk in the world”. It was the very first thing Jonathan and I booked for this around-the-world trip. To maintain the incredible purity of this wilderness area, only 40 people per day are allowed in this wonderland at the bottom of the world. We arbitrarily chose a date in late March and booked our entire trip around this trek. Needless to say, our expectations had been growing for months.
Off we go!
The Milford Track took us through ancient rainforests and massive glacier carved valleys. Mountains straight-up arose out of the sea and through a constant mist, we watched the creation of hundreds of waterfalls nearly 360 degrees around us. While in the presence of towering trees and dominating cliffs, we also found ourselves feeling like kiddos again as we pointed out the tiniest of mushrooms and failed to resist touching fuzzy mosses and slimy tree barks. Each night (at 8:00 on the dot), we crashed, with our bodies exhausted from the hike and our heads legitimately full from the wonder. It was… you guessed it… sublime.
Breathtaking
Click on the album to get a better look at Milford!
Rainbow for good luck
Approaching Glade Warf
Just a bit windy
Here we go!
Ancient rainforest
Life in the bog
Sandfly eating plant
Photo break in the rain forest
Following Tracy
Wait for me Jon!
Calendar shot 🙂
South Island Robin getting a taste of Jon’s boot
Tracy crossing at Cleopatra’s Pool
Taken before climbing the mountain pass
Stunning
Mountains of Day 2
Blending in
Before the rains came
The power of glaciers
Vertical cliffs
Waterfalls that didn’t exist yesterday
Wet hair, don’t care
Ten points if you find Tracy!
Watching the creation of waterfalls is impossible to capture
From cloud to waterfall
Continuing down the trail
On top of McKinnon Pass
Proof we made it!
Sutherland Falls, the 14th tallest in the world
Getting soaked at Sutherland Falls
Sun coming out
We made it!!
The opening at the end of the trek
Our boat ride to Milford Town post trek
Where the Milford Track explored the southern fjordlands, our next track, the 23 mile Abel Tasman Track, took us along the northern beaches of the South Island. Arched coves of golden sand and crystal-clear waters constantly invited us for swims along our way and commanding views around the headlands greeted us at the top of every climb.
Can we really call this “trekking”?
Camping along the Tasman Sea led to magnificent colors in the evening and plenty of bird songs to start the day. There were moments when, I swear, the birds were following so close behind me singing happy songs of playfulness that I felt like I was in a live-action version of “Snow White Goes to the Beach”.
Click on the pictures to travel along the Tasman!
Starting Abel Tasman
Our reward for climbing up high
Toadstool
One of many lagoons on Day 1
Abel Tasman himself
Scoping the track
Looking out to the Tasman Sea
Definitely carnivours!
Beautiful inlet
Super Mario Cart
Cross when the tide goes out!
Tide is out… go go go!
Rolling in
No boots hiking
Golden sands
Found it this way… I swear! 🙂
Tramping along the beach
Water so clear you can see to the bottom
Yarrr
Tracy found a seahorse!
Catching the boat back at the end of the trek
When first thinking of New Zealand, the lush forests and pristine beaches of our first two tracks come immediately to mind. But we would be remiss to forget that scene in Lord of the Rings where Sam carries Frodo up Mt. Doom. This should help ring a bell…
Just need to photoshop in some flames
Yep, the Tongarino Alpine Crossing on the North Island is a 12 mile jaunt through volcanic craters and alongside turquoise sulfuric lakes. The crossing is dominated by Mt. Ngauruhoe, better known as Mt. Doom, the perfectly conical (we are talking paper mache in science class perfect), ash-ridden volcano whose 3 mile summit side trip was not optional for Jonathan (and Tracy by association). Though I know hobbits did not “actually” climb its 45 degree slopes of ash, it was nearly impossible to put that scene out of our minds while slipping and gripping our way up to the crater’s rim. After an hour and a half of climbing, we were rewarded with views of most of the North Island and an inside look at this picture-perfect volcano. Steam obligingly rose from below and a group of nerdy, yet apparently quite fit, boys reenacted scenes with an actual gold ring they carried up. The remainder of the crossing, we took our time soaking up the lunar landscape and, once again, feeling like ants as we crossed the last two massive craters.
Click on the pictures to see the crossing of the Tongarino!
Our first look at Mt. Doom
Early morning smiles
Fighting frost
Climbing Mt. Doom = 2 steps forward, 1 step back
“I can’t carry it for you Mr. Frodo, but I can carry you!”
Almost there!
What a crazy landscape!
The view from the top of Mt. Doom
Tracy and Jonathan at the summit
The inside rim of Mt. Doom
Jonathan does not miss these sunglasses 🙂
Where you at Sauron??
Dangling on the edge
Tiny people in a huge crator!
Tracy giving Mt. Doom a hug
The road to Mordor
She’s stil active!
Every country has its own natural beauty and we have been lucky to experience as much of it as we have. But New Zealand… it just overwhelmed us with its dynamic diversity. As one friend of ours put it, “you can literally just drop your camera and it will take a great photograph”. It was more than beautiful; it was sublime.
There is no doubt. Ancient ruins are playing a large part in Jonathan and my trip around the world. With exploration of the ancient pillars and agoras in Greece, climbing atop massive temples in Sri Lanka, and spending a week in the city of Jerusalem, we are no strangers to the works of long-past civilizations. It would then be completely out of character for us to miss the pride of Cambodia, Angkor Wat.
This is going to be a bit of an educational post in part to help us remember the outragious facts we learned, but also to bring this incredible place to the forefront of eveyone’s mind. It really is that amazing! Angkor Wat is the centerpiece in a great temple complex larger than modern day Paris (yeah… Paris!) built between A.D. 1113 and 1150. The site, which holds the largest religious monument ever constructed is a legitimate fortress whose name means “city of temples”.
More stones were used here than in all of the Great Pyramids combined!
Angkor was once the capital of the Khmer Empire. The city contained hundreds of temples and a population possibly over 1 million people, easily the largest city in the world until the Industrial Revolution. It stunned Jonathan and I how little we knew about this extinct population and their ancient metropolis. We started having flashbacks to our days in Jordan discovering the unknown Nabateans and their glorious Petra.
Building Angkor Wat was an enormous undertaking. It is surrounded by a 3 mile radius moat which required 53 million cubic feet of sand and silt to be moved, a task that would have required thousands of people working at one time! The buildings, made of laterite (a strong clay rock), are encased in sandstone blocks that were quarried more than 25 miles north of the city and transported to the site by a series of man-made canals. The sandstone allowed the multitude of artists a softer stone to work both in sculpture and relief – and it paid off! According to inscriptions, the construction of Angkor Wat involved 300,000 workers and 6,000 elephants! No wonder it is so stunning both for its grand scale and incredible detail.
Sandstone detailed carving on the laterite walls
We spent two days winding our way through this epic ancient city using everything from tuk-tuks to mountain bikes for transportation. With advice from friends, we broke up the blistering days with lunch breaks by hotel pools ($2 for the afternoon and comes with a beer?!) and saved the big temples for early mornings and late afternoons.
Goofing off while cooling offEarly morning ride
The main temple, Angkor Wat, dazzels with its five perfectly aligned towers, but it is the details of the more than 3000 beguiling apsaras (heavenly nymphs) carved into its walls that leave you breathless. Each is unique with hundreds of variations of hairstyles and dancing positions.
Music and dancingOutside the main temple
The “otherness” of the art and architecture show a wonderland of all things imaginable and unimaginable in such exquisite detail that you find yourself easily getting lost in the “stories on the walls”.
Following along a Battle of the Gods story
A crowd favorite among the great temples, and for good reason, is Ta Prohm. This massive temple has been swallowed by the jungle and has been left close to as it was found in the 19th century.
Modern day explorers
This is a temple of crumbling towers and walls locked in the embrace of branches and root systems.
Climbing on throughTrees taking over
Ta Prohm is commonly spoken of as a poetic cycle of man conquering nature to rapidly create, and then nature once again conquering humanity in slow destruction.
“If Angkor Wat is testimony to the genius of the ancient Khmers, Ta Prohm reminds us equally of the awesome power of the jungle.”
Angkor Wat was inviting yet intimidating, grand yet detailed, and a masterpiece of both humanity and nature. Cambodia, you have such a treasure!
Sunset at the Bayon TempleAlways climbingThe Bayon Temple filled with hundreds of half-smiling faces
Cambodia was in our travel plans not only for Angkor Wat, but also to visit some old friends. Meeting new people is a well-known benefit of traveling, but there is nothing like being in the comfort of good friends as they introduce you to their neighborhood. Luckily for us, our friends Alexis and Alex were ready with plans for a weekend adventure up north to “4,000 Islands”. Jonathan said it best when he commented, “the best way to have adventures is to surround yourself with adventurous people.” Alexis and Alex did not disappoint.
Our home along the Mekong
With three days to play with, Alexis’ motto of “Do. All. The. Things!” took us (and a few other friends) up north to where the Mekong River serves as the border between Cambodia and Laos.
Cheers!If you don’t know this trick for floating, it is time you try it!
After a night of swimming and sunset beers it was decided we would attempt a “not-so-legal” border crossing across the Mekong into Laos. The morning started with motorbike rentals and a three hour ride through the country.
Motorbike shadows
After a couple of breaks to cool off in the river and some smooth negotiation, we ditched our motorbikes and had a boat, a driver, and some cold beers. We were on our way to Laos.
A very stressful border crossing
With a gang of motorbiking locals (ages 10-71) happy to take us around the area, we flew through the jungle along single-track dirt trails and over “bridges” that required unimaginable negotiation by our drivers. I sat on the back of the bike, giggling away and gripping the waste of my 10-year-old driver as he worked to prove himself with the rest of the gang.
We are getting ready to take the lead!
Our few days in Laos were a blur of waterfall swimming, spicy food, and trading currencies in the small river-front town of Don Det.
Our “after-bang” to celebrate a successful tripChasing waterfalls
This week served as a beautiful adventure to close out our time in South East Asia and start our journey to New Zealand (via motorbike, boat, bus, tuk tuk, and finally plane)!
There have been moments on this trip where we have looked at one another and said, “well, that could have gone better” or “wish we had another go at that”. Moments like a missed exit ramp leading to a four-hour detour on our road trip in the heart of South Africa or the time we left our bag unattended while snorkeling on a secluded beach leading to our “walking around money” walking off. They were always little instants that were easily remedied or quick to learn from. But we had one mulligan, I am afraid, that viciously engulfed us for three weeks… the country of Vietnam.
After weeks of ease, hopping on and off of the tourist track in Thailand, we headed to Vietnam, a country, whose doors to US tourism opened in the 90s. With visions of authentic encounters surrounded by a newly accessible nation, Vietnam excited us. We were anxious to compare and contrast tourist savoy Thailand with our next stop. However, we discovered that off the Western tourist track does not mean new to tourism. We were blindsided by a well-established, though completely new type of tourism created by the wants and needs of Vietnam’s largest population of visitors… the Chinese. With all-inclusive tours, massive buses, and a tourism net that we found nearly impossible to escape, our way of gently traveling was exhausting and unsuccessful. Add to our frustration, a bout of food poisoning that nearly killed Jonathan, a 12-hour overnight bus with us sandwiched on one tiny bed with a middle-aged Vietnamese woman, and an unexpected town catering entirely to Russian tourists and you have three weeks of us shouting “Mulligan!” on repeat.
Though we fumbled our first look, we managed to stir up some good laughs, surround ourselves in incredible beauty, and let Vietnam’s way of life intrigue and surprise us.
Straight from the airport, we grabbed a quick dinner (of fried chicken… I hope. The language barrier had us concerned with “dog” as an option on the menu) and popped in our sleeping compartment on the overnight train to Sapa, a town nestled in the hills of Northern Vietnam.
“My bed is this big!”
After a steaming bowl of pho for breakfast, we wandered about town through the cool mist of this humid, alpine country. Stumbling across a dance competition where men and women were dressed in elaborate costumes dancing to music foreign to our ears, I felt a moment of “Yes! This is exactly what I was hoping for!”
However, per the theme of this trip, our trekking guide later explained (with exasperation) that the dancers were Chinese and brought in to compete as entertainment for “their tourists.” Vietnam has spent decades working to provide their primary international visitors the experience “they” are looking for. I worry the people of this country will lose the confidence that there are people who travel to experience Vietnam itself.
The next morning, with a carefully selected guide, we meandered through the cascades of terraced rice paddies and brightly colored Hmong hill-tribe villages for two days.
Walking with the posseRice terracesOur “lesson” about the indigo plant
We learned about rice field maintenance (hint: it is intense) and spent the evening helping to cook (well… we rolled some egg rolls) and eating at a home-stay in the hills.
The day’s collectionHoop and StickOur host just got electricity so he started fire with a hairdryer…
Before bed, our host and some unnamed locals who joined us for dinner, helped us to multiple shots of “happy water” with “Ee oh bay ha!” chanted before each throw-back.
The meal that tried to kill Jon
I’ll blame the language barrier as the reason we finally bowed out after four drinks… 🙂
The hill county was stunning and despite the relentless touts from the village ladies and the indescribable illness that set Jonathan’s 15lb weight loss into motion, Sapa made for one of our most unique treks to date.
Following our guide and her little one
Our mulligan moment from Sapa: Jonathan does not eat the soup.
Allowing ourselves multiple days in Hanoi, we planned on getting a true grasp on this culturally rich capitol city. We had a street food tour booked for our first night, a list of historically and architecturally significant sites to wrap our heads around, and a home-base in the center of this busy city with plenty of small streets, restaurants, and shops to explore.
Unfortunately, our first 48 hours looked like this:
And our first meal looked like this:
Eventually, we pulled ourselves together and stepped into a city going through a massive transformation. Women balanced baskets of fruit and fish on their shoulders while the narrow streets of the Old Quarter surged with thousands of motorbikes participating in what one friend of ours named, “A Ballet of Chaos”.
This was a city where horns deafened you to conversation and traffic laws were, at best, optional. Smooth negotiation and a “don’t hesitate” attitude was needed to cross the street. Sidewalks were filled by tiny tables set with bowls of noodles and the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake hosted tai chi, badminton, and chess games.
In front of Turtle IslandBahn Mi finally!
Mulligan moment from Hanoi: Spend a full week out of the hotel room.
We have all seen the postcards and know that no trip to Vietnam is complete without seeing the famed Halong Bay. Knowing by now that this is a country packed to the brim with tourists, we tried our best to find a trip a bit off the beaten track. We chose to travel north a bit and visit Bai Tu Long Bay instead where “similar views but less people would be found”. As our boat wound its way through the limestone cliffed islands, which poked through the mist and seemed from another world, we sat and sadly watched as the trash-filled water passed below us and boat after boat crossed our path. Contrary to nearly all natural wonders, this seems a place better seen photographs.
Chaos in the bayWatching the cliffs go by“It looks like dangling feet!”
Our mulligan moment from Bai Tu Long Bay: be grateful for the experience but completely avoid it next time.
Vietnam might have given us some tough times, but we did have a great day conquering fears while abseiling down 200 foot waterfalls in Dalat.
Made it!Over 200 feet down!
And we took a camera class that walked us around early morning harbors, fish sauce factories, and neighborhoods in Hoian while teaching us how to “get in there” for the best shots and use our aperture setting appropriately. You can click on a few of our best shots!
Our final stop in Vietnam was Ho Chi Mihn City. With only a day left before our flight out, we regrettably sped our way through this energized city of past turmoil. We spent most of the day visiting the Reunification Palace, where the first Communist tanks arrived in April, 1975, and time has eerily stood still ever since.
The lounge: unchanged since 1975
The famous scene of a soldier running into the building and up the stairs to unfurl a VC flag from the balcony took place while in a reception chamber, the head of the South Vietnamese government waited with his improvised cabinet. ‘I have been waiting since early this morning to transfer power to you’, he said to the VC officer who entered the room. ‘There is no question of your transferring power’, replied the officer. ‘You cannot give up what you do not have.’
Mulligan moment of Ho Chi Mihn City: Not leaving time to thoroughly learn the history of the war and the Vietnamese’s perspective of American involvement.
It is never easy to leave a place of which you may never return with a feeling of regret. This was not an easy post to write as it displayed our ineptitude as travelers to adapt to a new set of rules and reminded us of a time when we nearly gave up on exploring. We sought out comfort food like never before, and we sighed with exhaustion when trying to make decisions and plans. But, funny enough, knowing what we know now, as desperate as we were to get out of Vietnam, we were equally as desperate to have another go at it.
We have had some incredible days on this trip thus far, but our few weeks in Thailand were what travel shows are made of. After talking with friends and family who raved of this country’s beauty, wildly described Thailand’s opportunities, and salivated as they rehashed their favorite meals, you could say expectations were unreasonably high. But from night one, these promises of greatness were met and were continuously exceeded with each street food meal and sunset. This is a friendly and tropical land that got our taste buds dancing every evening, gave us previously unfelt freedom as we explored islands by motorbike, and overloaded our senses with busy markets, gentle giants, and underwater worlds.
Sundowner at the Andaman Sea
Thai cuisine is in a class of its own… and for good reason. It is nearly unmatched in its ability to negotiate four fundamental flavors of spicy, sweet, salty, and sour while allowing for incredible variety and customization. Pungent lemongrass, searing chillies, and puckering lime highlight their broths and curries making steaming bowls of noodles sound surprisingly satisfying despite the oppressive heat. Night markets are filled with a smokey haze as neon lights shine down on noodle shacks, unidentifiable fruits, and everything you can imagine (plus some) on a stick. A few times a day, the routine of plopping down at a tiny plastic table with our knees at our chins manipulating chop sticks and slurping away took place as we started to learn just how much lime, chili, sugar, and vinegar we preferred to add to each dish.
Slurrrrrrp
New sights, smells, sounds, tastes
I think she even put eggs on a stick at one point
Smiling chef making, by far, our favorite meal
Squid for days
Tiny quail egg omlets
Can you smell the goodness?
After our awesome experiences learning from chefs in Turkey and Sri Lanka, a cooking class was a must. We spent a morning walking through farms and markets learning about the herbs and spices essential to Thai cooking, and then we started class. I stood in awe as our class revealed the simplicity behind the seemingly complicated dishes of Thailand. I might need some practice with the noodle wok and Jonathan may need to build up some grinding stamina with the mortar and pestle, but we are armed with the basics and ready to practice!
To the farm!
The makings for curry paste
“Ready to switch?”
Push forward and flip!
Tom Kaa and Tom Yum
Southern Thailand is surrounded with islands that hold perfect white-sand beaches where lazy days of reading, napping, and cold beer can sweep you away.
Before the sandbar disappearedHello??
But the real treat off the coast is the world of life underwater. Thailand is one of the premiere places to snorkel and scuba dive with its warm waters hosting scores of fish, elaborate coral reefs, and wild marine animals of all shapes and sizes. For Jonathan, an experienced diver and past lifeguard, this was a dream-come-true. For Tracy, a new-comer to the sport and a pretty shit swimmer, this was a perceived death trap turned magical wonderland after just minutes in the water. Our dives at Koh Haa flew by, and we cannot wait to get back to the serenity and surprises scuba provides.
“Give me some fin!”
Fishnato!
A-ok!
Life-size aquarium
Y’all know this guy’s name
If you smile, your regulator falls out and you can’t breath…
Top-lit life
Massive blue sea star
Post three dives and ready for a drink!
Traveling in South East Asia gives you ultimate freedom. With the power of the dollar and basically no rules, you can generally “sort out” just about anything. With this freedom, came unbridled excitement from Tracy and insurance-loop-hole concerns from Jonathan. With a killer recommendation from my family, we headed down to the docks to “sort out” a boat ride to a sparsely populated Muslim fishing island, Koh Yao Yai.
On our way to Koh Yao Yai
After a few more negotiations (with the locals regarding price and with Jonathan regarding the miniscule odds of major collision), we possessed a motorbike, snorkel gear, and a drawn map of beaches to find. Jonathan quickly forgot the risk of driving an unlicensened motorbike and relaxed into a day of pure freedom and 360 degree views.
Eyes on the road, Bareford!
Heading North, after our time in the islands, we were ready for the jungle and the animals (well, specifically one animal) that resided there. Elephants have been revered in Thailand for many centuries and symbolize everything from fortune and luck to the Thai people themselves. A visit to Thailand without interacting with these animals was not an option.
But, elephant tourism in Thailand is a sticky subject. It was only with help from my cousins and other friends, who had experience, that we were able to ethically navigate the options. Thailand has a long tradition of working with elephants for war, logging, and transportation. In the modern era, a new “tradition” of tourism entered with elephant rides and tricks. Unfortunately, mistreatment accompanied this transition. We quickly learned the sad truth behind “taming” a wild elephant so it is safe to ride, as well as the difficulty the animals have with weight on their not-so-strong spines. Why put one paying tourist on an elephant’s back when you can fit three in a basket? Despite claims that elephants in this nature of tourism are treated “better now”, the process of “breaking” them and the physics of the force on their body remain.
It was because of this, that Jonathan and I chose to visit the Elephant Nature Park, a rehabilitation sanctuary for animals once in the logging or tourism industry. We have visited rehabilitation centers in the past and found that our experiences were rich and full of gentle interaction. We spent a remarkable day feeding, bathing, and just watching these beautiful creatures interact with each other. They chatted with their friends and family members by chirping and trumpeting back and forth. They rolled through the mud, curiously explored our heads and hands with their trunks, and joyfully splashed with us in the river. It was a beautiful day of learning about the Asian Elephant as a species, but also about the individuals in this small family group. We uncovered who didn’t like vegetables and only wanted bananas, touched the scars from past mistreatment, and observed as the youngest of the group discovered how delightful scratching up on a tree felt. We left exhausted, elated, muddy, and covered in a new smell that took a few days to scrub off.
Hand-to-trunk gentleness
I think this is after she squirted Jonathan with water
Only bananas… no cucumbers
Bath time!
The mud acts as a sunscreen and cools them off
Showing mom her new scratching post
Their trunk feels like a mini-vacuum cleaner
It’s a party!
Our guide “guiding”
Goodbye… until next time!
Thailand is a well-traveled and well-loved country for very good reason. We found the tourism industry alive and well here, making our lives generally easier. But we also found a freedom to explore, whether it was underwater or on motorbikes, that made Thailand a true highlight. The kindness of its people, the mind-blowing food, and the diversity and beauty of its landscape make it a must for anyone’s bucket list. Also, aside from the Elephant Nature Park, our one suggestion for travel in Thailand is “foot massages everyday”!
Anniversary couples massage… Jonathan had to ask her to go easy for fear of injury 🙂
Thanks to our travels in Sri Lanka, where Buddhism was introduced to us, we were a bit more prepared for the acute role this religion played in our next stop, Thailand. However, where the sites and ceremonies in Sri Lanka seemed like frenzied pilgrimages, the temples and practice in Thailand appeared established and habitual. It was impossible to travel through this incredible country without immersing ourselves in their Buddhist culture.
From the moment we stepped off the plane, we were greeted with a sign stating “Welcome to Buddha Land” followed by a set of strict rules to follow in order to maintain respect for this religion of nearly 95% of the Thai population. “It is wrong to buy or use a Buddha symbol as decoration or tattoo” and “Absolutely no use of the Buddha’s head is permitted” were written everywhere, usually in all capitals and bold print. Buddhist culture and tradition were such clear priorities in Thailand that Jonathan and I quickly bought an “Into to Buddhism” book and started planning our attempt to get to know the temples, the stories, and the principles of this philosophy turned religion.
I promise this is not a regurgitation of our well-worn Buddhism book… because after months of reading and trying to cipher through the facts and lore, we are still pretty lost on how a guy sitting cross-legged under a tree has become this:
Elephants standing guard at the Grand Palace and TemplesLifting the royal pagodas at the Grand Palace and TemplesNaga, a mythical serpent who protects the Buddha
However, despite the heat, the crowds, and our ever-present confusion, Thailand allowed us to experience the incredible architecture of the temples, the impressive devotion of the monks, and the influence the Buddha’s teachings can have even on those who are not followers.
As with most ventures on this trip, our first day was… a learning experience. We were in Bangkok and ready to take on the Grand Palace and The Temple of the Emerald Buddha. It was 9am, about 180 degrees with 95% humidity in the air, and we were sweating out the hot noodle soup we had eaten for breakfast. Despite my desire to wear as close to nothing as possible, I respectfully changed into my ankle-length skirt and covered my shoulders before entering the gates. While looking around at the accumulating masses, it became quickly apparent that though Jonathan’s shorts were knee-length, they would not suffice in the temple and he needed something more. Off he went, while I sipped on a cold-drink, to find something more appropriate to wear. This is what he came back with…
“Best dollar I have ever spent”
We finally made it in and I will let the pictures I posted above and below do most of the talking about the grandeur of this place.
Blinding gold
As the sheer amount of gold blinded us in the sunshine, we wandered the impressive grounds of The Grand Palace, home to the longest active reigning monarch in the world. (Yep, even longer than Queen Elizabeth II) Whew, time for a coconut break.
The other temple we explored in Bangkok was Wat Pho. A wat (derived from the Sanskrit word avasa, meaning school) is a monastery temple in Thailand, Cambodia, and Laos. Strictly speaking, a wat is a Buddhist sacred place with a temple, housing and classrooms for the resident monks, and a class structure. We had the opportunity to see Wat Pho in its shiny glory during the day (along with thousands of others), but we also were treated to a special moment at night where we were nearly alone amongst these towering pagodas.
Wat Pho in sunshine gloryThe sheer size is incredibleTiles of all colors against the skyAlone at Wat Pho at nightHow many times can I say, “glowing”?
After leaving Bangkok, no matter how we travelled (by foot, train, or bus) we passed hundreds of wats throughout the country. We explored at least ten others along the way, all the while, researching answers to our questions, observing ceremonies and traditions, and appreciating the artwork and story-telling the murals on the walls provided.
Jonathan soaking it inBuddha with the naga behind him
We watched the daily ritual of Bin Tha Bat, or giving of alms, as monks walked barefoot along the road accepting food from those in the village in the bowls they hold close to their bodies. The monks do not thank the villagers for the food, as it is seen as a good deed to earn merit, however they must eat whatever is provided to them.
Alms bowlsA family giving alms during the holiday of Parinirvana
The sheer size was unreal
Traditionally, Buddhism is a philosophy with a way to approach life and death completely unlike anything we are familiar with. It is a practical teaching that allows one to chose what and how to follow based on one’s own life experience. Buddhism values wisdom and compassion above all else and has determined desire, attachment, and ignorance as the origins of suffering. Working our way through the big picture of Buddhism, one of the lessons Jonathan and I found ourselves constantly returning to in conversation, was one regarding motivation. Buddhism teaches the importance of defining the motivation for ones decisions, actions, and words. Is it self-promotion and attachment? Is it unnecessary desire? Is it compassion for others? We have found ourselves looking for the motivation within our own actions to evaluate if they are compassionate and ethical. But we have also tried to determine the motivation behind other’s actions in order for us to better understand those around us. We have to admit, not only has it made for good conversation, but we are finding ourselves quite a bit more mindful in our daily lives.
Though the pagodas were magnificent, the statues imposing, and the traditions exotic, it is the few lessons we took away from the Buddha’s teachings that will resonate the longest.
Well… it has hit us. Like really hit us. We had seen glimpses, heard whispers, and felt little inklings along the way. But it was when we arrived in Sri Lanka that we took the culture shock blast to the face. This little island gave us our first taste of a truly unfamiliar culture filled with new customs, different standards, and an all too unique pallet of spices. The streets were deafening with car honks and tuktuk beeps, most of the population seemed to walk without shoes, and eating with your hands was appropriate even if dressed in suits at a business meeting.
Check out those scales!Coming home from fishing
We ended up in Sri Lanka after hosting a native of the island for a month at our home back in Colorado. When we were sharing our itinerary with him, he casually mentioned that we had left Sri Lanka off the list. Not having a complete idea of where this country was… let alone what it had to offer, we played it cool and quickly improvised a spot for it in our plans. Months later, we found ourselves sitting on wooden benches in an old train with our heads out the window watching this tropical world wiz by.
The train system in Sri Lanka was our primary mode of transit… it was always an adventure!
Sri Lanka is relatively new to the western tourist track as it just ended a 30-year civil war in 2009. We felt lucky to, unknowingly, have stumbled upon a little part of the world that was just beginning its navigation of tourism. We enjoyed the comforts of the obvious touristic options a tropical island has such as scuba diving, whale watching, hiking to waterfalls, and fruity drinks on the beach.
Post scuba pina coladaElla Falls
Hiking the hills in the humidity
But we also found ourselves in situations involving genuine teamwork with locals to help make our travels work. When our ride from the beach to the mountains fell through (a 4-hour, one-way trip), a crew member on our whale watching boat called his dad who “wasn’t doing anything today” to take us.
Though the roads are not exactly maintained, the views out the windows can’t be beat
With help from the local population, we found solutions to problems that would almost certainly never exist in a tourist-savoy country. When the only ATM in an hour radius of our tiny mountain “cash-only” town was out of money, help came from all over to find us someone to exchange currency with. When a monkey took off with one of my shoes, it took some serious time and multiple hand signals to finally refuse offers of shoes from other girls nearby. My guess is that Sri Lanka will be more than tourist-ready in no time, so I am definitely choosing to treasure these moments of insecurity, bad charades, and heavy laughs.
Catching a ride through the tea fields
Known as “India Light”, Sri Lanka shares a similar history of eastern religion blended with western colonialism with their dominant neighbor to the North. This is a country laced with Buddhist history, passionate about tea, and never tires of rice and curry.
Jonathan and I both remember taking a world religions class back in the day, and I am sure they spent some time on Buddhism. Unfortunately, time has erased nearly all of the facts from our brains leaving us about as clueless as they come regarding this paramount religion. But as the saying goes, “involve me and I will learn” – so we dove in.
We were introduced to the cultures of this religion, of nearly 70% of Sri Lankans, in Kandy at Sri Dalada Maligawa or the Temple of the Tooth. This stunning temple is believed to house the left upper canine tooth of the Lord Buddha himself that was left after his body was cremated. The tooth itself is kept in a two-story inner shrine fronted by two large elephant tusks AND rests on a solid gold lotus flower, encased in a jeweled casket, sitting on a throne. Yeah… it is a big deal. We stood in the back of a sticky, crowded room while drums boomed and a high-pitched flute melody spliced its way through the masses.
The pujaThe home of The Tooth
Though we didn’t understand exactly what was happening, the amount of respect and devotion in the room was incredible. We were there for the evening puja (a daily ritual where devout Buddhists have a chance to see the case that holds the tooth for a brief moment). We stood by as hundreds of devoted pilgrims clad in white offered beautiful lotus flower arrangements and stood on tiptoes trying to catch a glimpse of the sparkling chest holding this sacred relic.
The sight and the smell are wonderfulPraying, meditating, offering
Our other two big sites were Dambulla or The Cave Temple and Sigiriya, an ancient rock fortress and monastery. The Cave Temple stretches across five caves and is filled to the brim with ancient sculptures and artwork. Over 150 Buddha statues stand, sit, or recline as murals cover every inch of the ceilings and walls. Walking through, Jon and I couldn’t help but wonder what each pose meant and why some received the lotus flower offerings and others did not. We were prompted to quickly make up a cheat sheet of the different poses for all future temple encounters.
Inside the ancient cavesApproaching the Cave TempleBuddhas in the “fear not” position surrounded by murals
Near Dambulla lies Sigiriya, a massive (660 ft) high rock that sits on its own surrounded by the tropics. King Kasyapa selected this site in 477 AD for his new capital and built his palace upon the rock. The palace and the grounds surrounding it must have been such a spectacle based on the ruins we saw when we arrived.
Setting out to climb that rock!
We set out to climb the 1500 steps up to the top passing by remains from ancient gardens and pools as well as plenty of grooming monkeys.
Spa day
About halfway up the rock, we came to the official entrance of the palace marked by two giant lion’s paws. I was having flashbacks to the massiveness of our visits to Petra and the Acropolis. With a final heave in the oppressive humidity, up a staircase that definitely would not pass any standards in the US, we arrived at the top with a killer view of the area and plenty of ancient walls to scale.
Joining the masses of pilgrims and tourists on some very “iffy” stairsJust one of the giant lion paws at the gate
On our way down we stopped to see the sites of meditation for the monks that claimed the site as a monastery after the King’s death. Despite the touristy nature of the “Lion’s Rock”, we had a great time exploring Sri Lanka’s most visited site.
View from the top!
Prior to independence, Sri Lanka was known as Ceylon. If you think that sounds familiar, it is probably due to Sri Lanka’s number one export: Ceylon Tea. It is impossible to be in Sri Lanka for much time before you are fully aware of the tea culture here. Not only do they cultivate it using the “contour planting” method, where bushes are planted in lines in coordination with the contours of the sloping land, but they take the tea from leaf to bag in one of the many tea factories dotting the hills.
Tea fields along the contoursThe train we took through the tea hills
The process is incredible. Only women (due to their delicate touch) are allowed to interact with the tea leaves themselves, skillfully plucking up to 45 pounds of leaves per day. Sri Lanka prides itself in being one of the few countries to hand-pick their leaves, preventing any unwanted sticks, buds, or unworthy leaves from entering the process. Jonathan and I caught countless views of women plucking away to fill the white bags they had strapped to their heads.
We took a tour of a working tea factory, and I have to admit, we felt the whole process, while incredible, seemed outdated. Hand picked leaves were transferred to mesh drying racks where temperature was rigorously controlled with wooden shutters on the windows. Once dried, they were rolled on old wooden battened tables and eventually dumped on a open air table to oxidize.
Tea roller
Each tea factory employs one man (and his one apprentice) who acts as the “nose” of the factory and is the sole person responsible for smelling the leaves and determining when the process is complete and the leaves are ready to be fired (to prevent further fermentation) and bagged.
Sorting the tea after firingMy attempt at being “the nose”
Though it seems a bit antiquated to us, who are we to judge a process who for over a hundred years has consistently provided some of the world’s best tea? We are quite happy to sip away appreciating the care and detail that went into our cups.
Can’t go to tea country and not have high tea!
If tea is the backbone of Sri Lankan cuisine, then rice and curry is the rest of the darn body. It is eaten for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. It is served in the fanciest of restaurants and in newspaper packets on the street. It is often the only option on the menu, and there are hundreds of ways to prepare it.
After enjoying our cooking class in Istanbul so much, we decided to see if we could learn a bit about the curry culture here in Sri Lanka. To do this, we spent the evening with Lanka, a quiet and stern chef up in the hills.
“Every curry takes ten minutes to cook”
After a few minutes of small talk, we got to work, and Lanka started to light up as he taught us the magic spice combo for curry powder, the art of making coconut milk, and the true variety of curries one can make in a few hours.
The stoveShaving coconut to make the cream
Before we realized it, we had seven completely different curries ranging from banana leaf to green beans to lentils steaming away in clay pots. I had no idea curries could taste so varied, yet compliment each other so well. Though we don’t have some of the tools we used with Lanka, I am confident curry nights are in our future once we return home.
The finished product!
As for our last few days in Sri Lanka, we spent them relaxing in the capital city of Colombo while we tried to wrap our heads around the next two months we were about to embark on in Southeast Asia. And, if I am being honest, after weeks of rice and curry, we also made a pretty solid, though unsuccessful attempt to find pizza. 🙂
The Zambezi River flows from its rise in Zambia out to the Indian Ocean, steadily bringing its waters, fish, and dangers across southeastern Africa. She is known as “Nyami Nyami” or the “River of Life” and slowly takes her time flowing next to villages before speeding through rocks and rapids eventually plunging across the Zimbabwe border down Victoria Falls. This is not just a steady stream of moving water. The Zambezi is the life force of remote people and animals that without her unfailing delivery, would never survive. We spent three days kayaking her waters, camping along her banks, and appreciating her power, serenity, and sheer awesomeness.
Our journey along the Zambezi started with the river tribes in norther Zambia. These are people who farm, raise chickens, and sell burnt wood as charcoal by the road to anyone passing by. They live along the banks of the Zambezi in simple mud huts and fish the waters of the great river using reed baskets and spears. Not much has changed for this group of river dwellers, and they seem honestly content. More than anyone, they know their river and the dangers that lurk within her. For years, they have constructed barriers from the thorny bush to keep the crocodiles away while they harvest their catch. Through time, they have learned the routine of the easily agitated hippopotamus as they feast each night on land and take their morning stroll back to the river at daybreak.
We paddled quietly (and, if I’m honest, aggressively against the wind at times…) along these villages observing their impressive yet rustic lifestyle, breaking only to wave at the kiddos who were excited to see our boats passing by.
The four of us (Jonathan, myself, and our two guides) camped each night in the grass along the banks of the river. While our guides, both from the Zambezi Tonga tribe, slept soundly each night, Jonathan and I lay awake without any consideration of sleep. Why? One word…hippos.
I am the first to admit that I have not taken hippos as seriously as I should have in the past. For years, they have been the subject of funny camp songs, children’s games, and stuffed animals. Even after learning that they kill more people in Africa than any other animal, I still never considered them much of a threat. I mean, sure, they can run 25 mph (that is WAY faster than a human) but have you seen how short their legs are and how low their bellies hang? I just could not convince myself to fear them. That was before we spent the night with them, separated only by our canvas tent. I am not sure how many came up out of the river to feed on the grass we were camped on, but by the cacophony we heard all night, there must have been hundreds. Ok, maybe more in the 20-30 range – but I cannot express the noise level outside our tent and the fear level within. Chomp. Snort. Growl. Snort. Repeat… ALL NIGHT LONG.
At dawn, the troop of massive creatures returned to the water and we readied ourselves to join them. The seriousness of avoiding hippos was made quite clear as our guides slapped the water with their paddles to warn the animals we were coming. When Jonathan casually mentioned seeing a pair of hippo ears near our boat, our guide yelled at us to paddle away as quickly as we could – that was, of course, until we realized the “ears” were two little river otters with about a hippo-head-sized space between them. 🙂
No. No they are not “cute”.
As the hours passed, the reed baskets turned to jury-rigged nets floating with coke bottle bobbers passing eventually to professional quality fishing equipment. Population increased, kiddos donned school uniforms, and we became accustomed to the frequent direct orders of our guide to steer clear of the collections of ears poking out of the water.
Disney princess backpack in tow
We pulled our boats out before the rapids accelerated and the river eventually threw herself over Victoria Falls. After drinking a well-deserved Mosi beer, we crawled under our mosquito nets and fell into a deep hippo-free sleep.
No visit to this part of the world would be complete without seeing the Zambezi plummet over the great Victoria Falls, known to the natives as “the smoke that thunders”. David Livingstone, one of the most well-known African explorers, described the falls as so magnificent that they “must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight”.
After an interesting border crossing into Zimbabwe involving a walk across the mile-long no-man’s-land, nearly 100 monkeys and baboon encounters, and an illegal cab ride to find an ATM, we were at the gates of the falls.
Our “passport stamp”Causing havoc
Within minutes, we found ourselves surrounded by rainbows, dampened by mist, and overlooking the most incredible collection of waterfalls we have ever seen. We spent the day walking, surprisingly alone, from vista to vista completely in awe of the magnitude of these falls and the vivid assortment of colors they produced.
Once again, pictures cannot do the scene justice. It was magnificent.
The smoke that thunders!Rainbows for miles
Our quick visit North was an intimate one that provided one of the most impressive scenes of our trip and a few of our worst night’s sleeps. Cheers to Nyami Nyami!
If you click on the picture, you will see our favorite fact about each animal!
A zebra’s stomach is often full of gas which leads to a protruding belly and a very “musical” gallop. 🙂
Every three years (on average), after an 18-month pregnancy, the female white rhinoceros gives birth to one young.
Last night’s dinner: to ensure larger animals and hyenas do not steal its prey, a leopard will carry more than twice its weight up a tree. Pound for pound, it is the by far the strongest climber amongst the cats.
The lilac-breasted roller gets its name from their impressive courtship flight, a fast, shallow dive from a considerable elevation with a rolling motion.
One of our favorite safari moments was watching this giraffe drinking water – an incredibly vulnerable (and awkward) position.
The black crake’s legs will become bright red when it is breeding season… 😉
A baby elephant does not learn how to use its trunk until it is about 8 months old. Before then, the baby will swing it around and suck on it, just as a baby would suck its thumb.
Though not particularly graceful or beautiful, the warthog might be our favorite animal.
Rhinos lay down “middens” or piles of dung to mark their territory. Other animals add their deposits in these middens basically creating toilets around the savannah.
The leopard tortoise is a solitary animal except during mating season where the male will pursue the female by butting her in the back of her shell with his head until she “gives in”.
Female lions do 85-90% of the pride’s hunting while the males patrol the territory and protect the pride.
Grey heron standing on hippos
We saw these guys out in the wild, but by far our favorite experience was learning about them on the farm. 1 ostrich egg = 24 chicken eggs!
Honey badgers really don’t give a s***.
This little genet came to dinner with us. Not only are they nocturnal and extremely cat-like; they also apparently enjoy a nice pasta dinner. 🙂
The Cape Buffalo is one of the “African Big 5” most dangerous animals to hunt. If shot at, they will circle back to attack the hunter…
The African Fish Eagle is the largest bird of prey in Africa.
African wild dogs have a playful ceremony to “pump up” prior to a hunt. They start circulating among each other, vocalizing, and touching until they are excited and ready to start the hunt.
The name giraffe means “a camel marked like a leopard”.
The woodland kingfisher, contrary to its name, is rarely found fishing. It prefers munching on bugs and seeds instead.
Perfectly camouflaged
How the wildebeest came to be: After the creator had made the animals, he did not want to waste spare parts. So he decided he would use some left over stripes from the zebra, a warthog shaped head, a neck shaped like a buffalo, and some left over lions mane to create one last animal – the wildebeest.
The saddle-billed stork will swallow that fish whole and chase it with a swig of water.
The warthog has to kneel to drink because their neck is too short to reach the ground. They also run (or prance) with their tails high in the air – look up a video of one running if you are having a bad day!
These southern ground hornbills are impossible to photograph but are over four feet tall and weigh over 13 pounds! They scared the **** out of us when they ran in front of our car!
The African Darteris commonly known as the snakebird as it often swims with only the neck above the water.
It takes a cape water buffalo bull at least eight years to fight his way high enough up the dominance hierarchy to secure opportunities to mate.
The dassie is, amazingly, the closest related animal to the elephant!
Hippos eat nearly 90 pounds of grass each night and are most dangerous when they are crossing from water to land and back again. They also kill the most people in Africa. Gulp!
Baby rhinos are adorable. Fact.
Most dung beetles create “brooding balls” by gathering animal dung (the fresher, the better) and rolling it into balls. The goal is to attract a female by rolling the prettiest and sturdiest ball for her to lay her eggs in. To orient themselves as they roll their ball home, the dung beetle will climb on top of their ball and look to the sky to use the sun and stars for guidance. When researchers placed little hats on the beetles, preventing them from seeing the sky, they were lost and wandered about
This young male bushbuck will most often be found around water and is an excellent swimmer.
The Giant African Millipede… ewwww
The majestic kudu has incredible spiral horns and though standing perfectly still for this picture, they can jump over 9 feet high!
The leopard is the most elusive and secretive of the large cats. They are incredibly difficult to track and locate in the wild.
Impala are jokingly referred to as the “fast food of the savannah” as they are nearly everywhere making popular dinner choices for the big cats.
This crocodile, with a kill, has the strongest bite of all the animals in the world, however, one their mouth is shut, a human adult can easily hold it closed.
Baboons are fighters. If a preditor comes along, unlike monkeys who will run up the trees for safety, baboons will come down from trees to scream and fight. They also create a bit on an uneasy feeling when you are walking down the road next to them…
This is a female waterbuck – identified by the ring around her booty.
The African Elephant is either right or left”tusked” with the dominant tusk becoming shorter due to frequent use.
These guys, appropriately named the African Penguin, are the only penguins found on the entire continent of Africa.
The African Common Toad… I just feel like he probably never makes it into photo books so I am giving him his time in the spotlight.
Eastbound and Down 