Eastbound and Down

Thanks to our travels in Sri Lanka, where Buddhism was introduced to us, we were a bit more prepared for the acute role this religion played in our next stop, Thailand.  However, where the sites and ceremonies in Sri Lanka seemed like frenzied pilgrimages, the temples and practice in Thailand appeared established and habitual. It was impossible to travel through this incredible country without immersing ourselves in their Buddhist culture.

From the moment we stepped off the plane, we were greeted with a sign stating “Welcome to Buddha Land” followed by a set of strict rules to follow in order to maintain respect for this religion of nearly 95% of the Thai population.  “It is wrong to buy or use a Buddha symbol as decoration or tattoo” and “Absolutely no use of the Buddha’s head is permitted” were written everywhere, usually in all capitals and bold print.  Buddhist culture and tradition were such clear priorities in Thailand that Jonathan and I quickly bought an “Into to Buddhism” book and started planning our attempt to get to know the temples, the stories, and the principles of this philosophy turned religion.

I promise this is not a regurgitation of our well-worn Buddhism book… because after months of reading and trying to cipher through the facts and lore, we are still pretty lost on how a guy sitting cross-legged under a tree has become this:

 

However, despite the heat, the crowds, and our ever-present confusion, Thailand allowed us to experience the incredible architecture of the temples, the impressive devotion of the monks, and the influence the Buddha’s teachings can have even on those who are not followers.

As with most ventures on this trip, our first day was… a learning experience.  We were in Bangkok and ready to take on the Grand Palace and The Temple of the Emerald Buddha.  It was 9am, about 180 degrees with 95% humidity in the air, and we were sweating out the hot noodle soup we had eaten for breakfast.  Despite my desire to wear as close to nothing as possible, I respectfully changed into my ankle-length skirt and covered my shoulders before entering the gates.  While looking around at the accumulating masses, it became quickly apparent that though Jonathan’s shorts were knee-length, they would not suffice in the temple and he needed something more.  Off he went, while I sipped on a cold-drink, to find something more appropriate to wear.  This is what he came back with…

We finally made it in and I will let the pictures I posted above and below do most of the talking about the grandeur of this place.

As the sheer amount of gold blinded us in the sunshine, we wandered the impressive grounds of The Grand Palace, home to the longest active reigning monarch in the world.  (Yep, even longer than Queen Elizabeth II)  Whew, time for a coconut break.

The other temple we explored in Bangkok was Wat Pho.  A wat (derived from the Sanskrit word avasa, meaning school) is a monastery temple in Thailand, Cambodia, and Laos.  Strictly speaking, a wat is a Buddhist sacred place with a temple, housing and classrooms for the resident monks, and a class structure.  We had the opportunity to see Wat Pho in its shiny glory during the day (along with thousands of others), but we also were treated to a special moment at night where we were nearly alone amongst these towering pagodas.

After leaving Bangkok, no matter how we travelled (by foot, train, or bus) we passed hundreds of wats throughout the country.  We explored at least ten others along the way, all the while, researching answers to our questions, observing ceremonies and traditions, and appreciating the artwork and story-telling the murals on the walls provided.

We watched the daily ritual of Bin Tha Bat, or giving of alms, as monks walked barefoot along the road accepting food from those in the village in the bowls they hold close to their bodies.  The monks do not thank the villagers for the food, as it is seen as a good deed to earn merit, however they must eat whatever is provided to them.

 

Traditionally, Buddhism is a philosophy with a way to approach life and death completely unlike anything we are familiar with.  It is a practical teaching that allows one to chose what and how to follow based on one’s own life experience.  Buddhism values wisdom and compassion above all else and has determined desire, attachment, and ignorance as the origins of suffering.  Working our way through the big picture of Buddhism, one of the lessons Jonathan and I found ourselves constantly returning to in conversation, was one regarding motivation.  Buddhism teaches the importance of defining the motivation for ones decisions, actions, and words.  Is it self-promotion and attachment?  Is it unnecessary desire?  Is it compassion for others?  We have found ourselves looking for the motivation within our own actions to evaluate if they are compassionate and ethical.  But we have also tried to determine the motivation behind other’s actions in order for us to better understand those around us.  We have to admit, not only has it made for good conversation, but we are finding ourselves quite a bit more mindful in our daily lives.

 

Though the pagodas were magnificent, the statues imposing, and the traditions exotic, it is the few lessons we took away from the Buddha’s teachings that will resonate the longest.