There are not many better ways to get to know your life partner than to test the relationship in a foreign country… on a budget… living in a van… for three months. During our time in Oceania, Jonathan and I had the pleasure of keeping company with two distinctly different camper vans, lovingly named Darla and McFly.
Darla was our companion in New Zealand where she boisterously carried us 2,500 miles around the North and South islands of New Zealand. She was a no-frills lady who had definitely been around the block before. Darla responded best to encouraging words and dashboard pets when attempting hill ascents and was keen on letting all other campers know that she was in attendance everytime her sliding door needed to be opened or closed. She was spacious (it’s all relative right?) and though she had trouble starting on cold mornings, she was faithful and dependable for six weeks of adventure. Darla’s favorite road trip moments were lunch breaks at Lake Wanaka and days spent at the beach on the West coast of the South Island.
Darla showing off her beach bodyCheers at Lake WanakaHappy hour
McFly was sleek, shiny, and bright orange. Though smaller than Darla, he was perfectly converted to allow for maximum storage, comfort (again with the relativity), and ease. McFly guided us 2,100 miles up the East coast of Australia and though his radio never worked, he made up for it by coming with a portible DVD player! McFly loved nights where he could open up his skylight to let the Southern sky (some of the best stars we have ever seen!) shine in while he securely protected his passengers from the deadly spiders, snakes, and crocodiles that enhabited their campsites. McFly’s favorite road trip moments included seeing the World’s Largest Mango and the mornings spent cooking gourmet breakfasts behind gas stations with the long-distance truck drivers.
Road trip necessityMcFly in the sunOmlet ala diesel
There were some major advantages to our vagabond lifestyle:
Ultimate freedom to explore at our own pace, pull over when we liked, and bascially just wing it most days
We are now masters of the one-pot meal and have developed pretty good recipes for Thai green curry, Mexican quinoa, spaghetti bolognese, and vegetable soup
Mmm gnocchi!
Cooking in the rain
Our cribbage and hackysack skills have improved exponentially
Knowing where you are going to sleep each night after a day of hiking and exploring is one of the greatest feelings when traveling
And there were some definite difficulties straight-up-not-so-fun moments:
The smell in the van after a hot sweaty day was immediately followed by a day of non-stop rain
Trying to keep food from spoiling when the temperature outside hits 100 degrees
The pantry
Attempting to convince ourselves that going to McDonalds (one of the few places with wifi) 3-4 times a week is not a failure in traveling…or in life
Pre-sunrise wake up calls by sheep, cows, tractor trailers, and worst of all, laughing kookaburras (google this little guy!)
Not always sunshine and rainbows
Ultimately though, Jonathan and I had a blast traveling this way and would not hesitate to recommend seeing these countries in the company of Darla and McFly.
The people, the animals, and the overall atmosphere of New Zealand not only forces a smile on your face, but gives you a sense of ease and comfort.
A NZ vineyard’s welcome lamb (True story!)
Of course… I know this is the country of crazy adrenaline sports (which we sadly could not afford this trip) and the smiling, yet tough, local Kiwis can all MacGyver anything from a tractor to a guitar. But in all honesty, New Zealand gave us a feeling similar to one you might have while sitting in the grass holding a baby bunny. It is that feeling where everything is soft and you cannot conceive the possibility that anything would hurt you. This is a land of no predators (their most dangerous animal is a non native wild pig) where flightless, defenseless birds thrive, and their current national defense is targeting an invasive tree possum.
Countless flightless birds like this Takahe survive with ease
This is, without a doubt, one of the most peaceful and serene countries we have visited. Our six weeks in New Zealand filled us with fuzzy feelings, wonderful family dinners, and plenty of restful afternoons soaking up the tranquility that surrounded us.
Because we decided to rent a campervan (whom we named Darla) for our six weeks in New Zealand, our flexibility was unlimited (though our personal space and meal variety took quite the hit). It allowed us time for refreshing and familiar nights reconnecting with old friends while chomping on pizza and letting New Zealand’s version of “The Bachelor” play in the background. It was joyful and carefree to mosey along pastoral roads jumping from farm to campground with undisturbed singalongs and abundant road-trip snacks. And it was so much damn fun taking advice as it came and letting ourselves forget this was not going to last forever.
An hour later, they all finally crossed the roadBreak for a little hike
We bumbled along spending many hours playing cards and reading in the sun while occasionally springing for a taste of extravagance here and there (deserved after 6 weeks of living in a van). One morning, after a few nights of cooking and camping on the beach, we splurged on a helicopter ride (a first for both of us!) to the middle of Fox Glacier. Beach to glacier overnight…? Only in New Zealand. After a whirlwind of a ride where blinking was limited so as not to miss a single view, we landed on the ice at the top of the glacier in the dominating shadow of Mt. Cook (New Zealand’s highest peak). Exploring a piece of the world accessed this way is a thrilling, absolutely wild feeling. Click to get a better look.
On the Tasman Glacier
Mt. Cook rising
Focused pilot
Unreal feeling
Ready to fly
A few of our favorite days were spent in the small city of Dunedin visiting Bill, a wonderful retired cattle rancher we met while on safari in South Africa. In true Kiwi fashion, Bill invited us to visit “if we made it down that way” and so, months later, loaded with time and a trusty van, “down that way” we went. Planning on staying just for an evening to visit Bill, we were surprised to find ourselves still in Dunedin four days later. Bill, a native and definitely well-loved man in town, set us up on an adventure to see the pride of Dunedin, their native (GIANT) Albatross birds.
Just giving a little size perspectiveBabies!!
He spent the rest of the time bringing us along on his weekly outings as if we were members of his own family. We had a great time! We engaged in “appropriate chicken rearing” discussions with ‘Bill’s egg guy’ at the Farmer’s Market, learned the art of lawn-bowling,
My sad attemptA true professional
joined “The Zoo” (student section) at the professional rugby match on Friday night,
Highlanders Win!!Scrum!
fell asleep in recliners after evenings of fish and chips, and woke up early to stand on the sideline and help “coach” Bill’s neighborhood rugby team. The retired life of a Kiwi…sigh.
Our farewell dinnerSideline coaching is international
When you are in New Zealand, things that should frighten you… just don’t. For example, caves. Known for their cold, damp, darkness, caves do not often give me the fuzzy feeling of the bunny I mentioned earlier. But in New Zealand, they have caves that are so delightful, they could serve as homes to families of fairies. Thanks to the unique and incredible glow-worms, walking (or in our case tubing) in New Zealand caves, feels like floating in Van Gough’s “Starry Night” on your way to the Milky Way.
We were in Te Tahi Cave, where glow-worms live in abundance, hanging their sticky feeding lines above the cave’s river and catching insects that foolishly enter, attracted to the glow-worms’ self-produced light. We sat under their twinkle and watched as an unlucky fly was caught by the sticky string and quickly reeled in by the worm for consumption. It was straight out of National Geographic – absolutely wild! We don’t have nearly a nice enough camera (nor the skills) required to take photos of these amazing creatures, so I am going to steal from the internet to give y’all an idea of how absolutely, out-of-control, crazy nature is.
The beaded strings hangingThis is SERIOUSLY what it looked like!
A part of New Zealand’s history that begins with the all-too-familiar story of indigenous people suffering from colonialism, discrimination, and oppression is transforming into a present reality of reconciliation and revitalization. Everyday, Jonathan and I could see the efforts and successes of New Zealand’s integrated society. We passed public signs posted in both English and Maori, listened to the Maori radio and television channels, and watched with intimidation as the pride of New Zealand, the All Blacks rugby team, perform the Haka (the traditional Maori “dance of challenge”) moments before their upcoming match. Though far from perfect, the Maori are finding their voice and an increasingly important place in New Zealand policy, tradition, and international influence. Seeing this transformation in process, I felt embarrassed thinking about how poor of a job we were doing back home working with our Native American populations. I wonder if communication has or could exist between New Zealand and the United States to encourage growth and unification…
Jonathan and I visited the living Maori village of Whakarewarewa, home to the Tuhourangi/Ngati Wahiao tribes, for a glimpse into the history, traditions, and current life of the Maori. The ancestors of the Maori came to New Zealand at least eight centuries ago from East Polynesia, traveling in ocean-going canoes known as waka. They traveled throughout New Zealand with many settling in the valley between two impressive lakes surrounded by volcanoes and geothermal activity, today known as Rotorua.
Hot springs in Rotorua
The Maori in the Whakarewarewa village continue to live in harmony with this unique environment. They bath and soak in the heated waters and cook underground in dug out ovens, affectionately known as “The Village Crockpots”. Through dance, language, and tradition, the Maori culture delighted us, but it was their passion to fight for reclamation and now unity that truly impressed us.
The Marae or Meeting House
The top of the Marae is the Koruru
Base of a Maori Pouwhenua
Underground cooking
With the performers
Tongue out for intimidation
Finally, Jonathan would kill me if I concluded my posts on New Zealand without mentioning our enchanting day spent at Hobbiton. For those of you who are not Lord of the Rings fans, this is the set used in Peter Jackson’s movie renditions of the Lord of the Rings trilogy and The Hobbit. For those of you who are fans… be jealous! While exploring the impressive movie set and looking out on a real life shire, I could not help but think, of course Hobbits would live in New Zealand! Only in the comfort and safety of New Zealand countryside could anything with Tolkien’s descriptors for hobbits: a height of between two and four feet, a tendency towards chubbiness, a delight when wearing bright colors, a love for food and drink (eating a mere six times per day), a love of laughter and celebration, and truly impressed by good tilled earth exist. Click on the photos for a closer look.
Taken at Weta studio
Taken at Weta studio
Delightful does not even begin to explain our time in New Zealand. I hope that everyone gets a chance to explore this country someday! Without a doubt the land and the people will be waiting to welcome you with a hearty “Kia Ora!”, (translated as “be well”) as they show off their country.
When asked, “Which place has been your favorite?” Jonathan and I simultaneously state (more factually than emphatically), “New Zealand.” Why no exclamation mark? Because New Zealand took this honor in a landslide victory. This country’s dynamic beauty caused us to constantly pick our jaws up from the floor while attempting to find synonyms for “Whoa!!” You could employ any and every positive adjective when trying to describe the landscape of New Zealand. Ultimately though, I believe only one word is acceptable and even then, only one definition of that word. The word is sublime and the definition comes from the philosopher Immanuel Kant (though introduced to me by the author Mark Adams) . While writing this post and revisiting our pathetic attempts to capture the sheer awesomeness of New Zealand’s nature, I constantly returned to this word and this definition in hopes of re-living the simultaneous feelings of comforting humility and daunting greatness.
“There is a difference between beautiful and sublime. Sublime means something limitless, an aesthetically pleasing entity so huge that it makes the perceiver’s head hurt.”
New Zealand is not just beautiful, it is sublime.
Jonathan and I hiked over 120 miles in New Zealand, tackling three of their “Great Walks” which allowed us to gaze at insane vistas while absorbing the endless details nature provides. The craziest part is, even after six weeks on these two small islands, we feel we have barely scratched the surface… and we cannot wait to return.
Our Great Walk introduction was the four-day, 34 mile trek through Milford Sound, known famously as “The finest walk in the world”. It was the very first thing Jonathan and I booked for this around-the-world trip. To maintain the incredible purity of this wilderness area, only 40 people per day are allowed in this wonderland at the bottom of the world. We arbitrarily chose a date in late March and booked our entire trip around this trek. Needless to say, our expectations had been growing for months.
Off we go!
The Milford Track took us through ancient rainforests and massive glacier carved valleys. Mountains straight-up arose out of the sea and through a constant mist, we watched the creation of hundreds of waterfalls nearly 360 degrees around us. While in the presence of towering trees and dominating cliffs, we also found ourselves feeling like kiddos again as we pointed out the tiniest of mushrooms and failed to resist touching fuzzy mosses and slimy tree barks. Each night (at 8:00 on the dot), we crashed, with our bodies exhausted from the hike and our heads legitimately full from the wonder. It was… you guessed it… sublime.
Breathtaking
Click on the album to get a better look at Milford!
Rainbow for good luck
Approaching Glade Warf
Just a bit windy
Here we go!
Ancient rainforest
Life in the bog
Sandfly eating plant
Photo break in the rain forest
Following Tracy
Wait for me Jon!
Calendar shot 🙂
South Island Robin getting a taste of Jon’s boot
Tracy crossing at Cleopatra’s Pool
Taken before climbing the mountain pass
Stunning
Mountains of Day 2
Blending in
Before the rains came
The power of glaciers
Vertical cliffs
Waterfalls that didn’t exist yesterday
Wet hair, don’t care
Ten points if you find Tracy!
Watching the creation of waterfalls is impossible to capture
From cloud to waterfall
Continuing down the trail
On top of McKinnon Pass
Proof we made it!
Sutherland Falls, the 14th tallest in the world
Getting soaked at Sutherland Falls
Sun coming out
We made it!!
The opening at the end of the trek
Our boat ride to Milford Town post trek
Where the Milford Track explored the southern fjordlands, our next track, the 23 mile Abel Tasman Track, took us along the northern beaches of the South Island. Arched coves of golden sand and crystal-clear waters constantly invited us for swims along our way and commanding views around the headlands greeted us at the top of every climb.
Can we really call this “trekking”?
Camping along the Tasman Sea led to magnificent colors in the evening and plenty of bird songs to start the day. There were moments when, I swear, the birds were following so close behind me singing happy songs of playfulness that I felt like I was in a live-action version of “Snow White Goes to the Beach”.
Click on the pictures to travel along the Tasman!
Starting Abel Tasman
Our reward for climbing up high
Toadstool
One of many lagoons on Day 1
Abel Tasman himself
Scoping the track
Looking out to the Tasman Sea
Definitely carnivours!
Beautiful inlet
Super Mario Cart
Cross when the tide goes out!
Tide is out… go go go!
Rolling in
No boots hiking
Golden sands
Found it this way… I swear! 🙂
Tramping along the beach
Water so clear you can see to the bottom
Yarrr
Tracy found a seahorse!
Catching the boat back at the end of the trek
When first thinking of New Zealand, the lush forests and pristine beaches of our first two tracks come immediately to mind. But we would be remiss to forget that scene in Lord of the Rings where Sam carries Frodo up Mt. Doom. This should help ring a bell…
Just need to photoshop in some flames
Yep, the Tongarino Alpine Crossing on the North Island is a 12 mile jaunt through volcanic craters and alongside turquoise sulfuric lakes. The crossing is dominated by Mt. Ngauruhoe, better known as Mt. Doom, the perfectly conical (we are talking paper mache in science class perfect), ash-ridden volcano whose 3 mile summit side trip was not optional for Jonathan (and Tracy by association). Though I know hobbits did not “actually” climb its 45 degree slopes of ash, it was nearly impossible to put that scene out of our minds while slipping and gripping our way up to the crater’s rim. After an hour and a half of climbing, we were rewarded with views of most of the North Island and an inside look at this picture-perfect volcano. Steam obligingly rose from below and a group of nerdy, yet apparently quite fit, boys reenacted scenes with an actual gold ring they carried up. The remainder of the crossing, we took our time soaking up the lunar landscape and, once again, feeling like ants as we crossed the last two massive craters.
Click on the pictures to see the crossing of the Tongarino!
Our first look at Mt. Doom
Early morning smiles
Fighting frost
Climbing Mt. Doom = 2 steps forward, 1 step back
“I can’t carry it for you Mr. Frodo, but I can carry you!”
Almost there!
What a crazy landscape!
The view from the top of Mt. Doom
Tracy and Jonathan at the summit
The inside rim of Mt. Doom
Jonathan does not miss these sunglasses 🙂
Where you at Sauron??
Dangling on the edge
Tiny people in a huge crator!
Tracy giving Mt. Doom a hug
The road to Mordor
She’s stil active!
Every country has its own natural beauty and we have been lucky to experience as much of it as we have. But New Zealand… it just overwhelmed us with its dynamic diversity. As one friend of ours put it, “you can literally just drop your camera and it will take a great photograph”. It was more than beautiful; it was sublime.
Eastbound and Down 