Eastbound and Down

The people, the animals, and the overall atmosphere of New Zealand not only forces a smile on your face, but gives you a sense of ease and comfort.

Of course… I know this is the country of crazy adrenaline sports (which we sadly could not afford this trip) and the smiling, yet tough, local Kiwis can all MacGyver anything from a tractor to a guitar.  But in all honesty, New Zealand gave us a feeling similar to one you might have while sitting in the grass holding a baby bunny.  It is that feeling where everything is soft and you cannot conceive the possibility that anything would hurt you.  This is a land of no predators (their most dangerous animal is a non native wild pig) where flightless, defenseless birds thrive, and their current national defense is targeting an invasive tree possum.

This is, without a doubt, one of the most peaceful and serene countries we have visited.  Our six weeks in New Zealand filled us with fuzzy feelings, wonderful family dinners, and plenty of restful afternoons soaking up the tranquility that surrounded us.

Because we decided to rent a campervan (whom we named Darla) for our six weeks in New Zealand, our flexibility was unlimited (though our personal space and meal variety took quite the hit).  It allowed us time for refreshing and familiar nights reconnecting with old friends while chomping on pizza and letting New Zealand’s version of “The Bachelor” play in the background.  It was joyful and carefree to mosey along pastoral roads jumping from farm to campground with undisturbed singalongs and abundant road-trip snacks.  And it was so much damn fun taking advice as it came and letting ourselves forget this was not going to last forever.

 

We bumbled along spending many hours playing cards and reading in the sun while occasionally springing for a taste of extravagance here and there (deserved after 6 weeks of living in a van).  One morning, after a few nights of cooking and camping on the beach, we splurged on a helicopter ride (a first for both of us!) to the middle of Fox Glacier.  Beach to glacier overnight…?  Only in New Zealand.  After a whirlwind of a ride where blinking was limited so as not to miss a single view, we landed on the ice at the top of the glacier in the dominating shadow of Mt. Cook (New Zealand’s highest peak).  Exploring a piece of the world accessed this way is a thrilling, absolutely wild feeling.  Click to get a better look.

A few of our favorite days were spent in the small city of Dunedin visiting Bill, a wonderful retired cattle rancher we met while on safari in South Africa.  In true Kiwi fashion, Bill invited us to visit “if we made it down that way” and so, months later, loaded with time and a trusty van, “down that way” we went.  Planning on staying just for an evening to visit Bill, we were surprised to find ourselves still in Dunedin four days later.  Bill, a native and definitely well-loved man in town, set us up on an adventure to see the pride of Dunedin, their native (GIANT) Albatross birds.

He spent the rest of the time bringing us along on his weekly outings as if we were members of his own family.  We had a great time!  We engaged in “appropriate chicken rearing” discussions with ‘Bill’s egg guy’ at the Farmer’s Market, learned the art of lawn-bowling,

 

joined “The Zoo” (student section) at the professional rugby match on Friday night,

fell asleep in recliners after evenings of fish and chips, and woke up early to stand on the sideline and help “coach” Bill’s neighborhood rugby team.  The retired life of a Kiwi…sigh.

When you are in New Zealand, things that should frighten you… just don’t.  For example, caves.  Known for their cold, damp, darkness, caves do not often give me the fuzzy feeling of the bunny I mentioned earlier.  But in New Zealand, they have caves that are so delightful, they could serve as homes to families of fairies.  Thanks to the unique and incredible glow-worms, walking (or in our case tubing) in New Zealand caves, feels like floating in Van Gough’s “Starry Night” on your way to the Milky Way.

We were in Te Tahi Cave, where glow-worms live in abundance, hanging their sticky feeding lines above the cave’s river and catching insects that foolishly enter, attracted to the glow-worms’ self-produced light.  We sat under their twinkle and watched as an unlucky fly was caught by the sticky string and quickly reeled in by the worm for consumption.  It was straight out of National Geographic – absolutely wild!  We don’t have nearly a nice enough camera (nor the skills) required to take photos of these amazing creatures, so I am going to steal from the internet to give y’all an idea of how absolutely, out-of-control, crazy nature is.

A part of New Zealand’s history that begins with the all-too-familiar story of indigenous people suffering from colonialism, discrimination, and oppression is transforming into a present reality of reconciliation and revitalization.  Everyday, Jonathan and I could see the efforts and successes of New Zealand’s integrated society.  We passed public signs posted in both English and Maori, listened to the Maori radio and television channels, and watched with intimidation as the pride of New Zealand, the All Blacks rugby team, perform the Haka (the traditional Maori “dance of challenge”) moments before their upcoming match.  Though far from perfect, the Maori are finding their voice and an increasingly important place in New Zealand policy, tradition, and international influence.  Seeing this transformation in process, I felt embarrassed thinking about how poor of a job we were doing back home working with our Native American populations.  I wonder if communication has or could exist between New Zealand and the United States to encourage growth and unification…

Jonathan and I visited the living Maori village of Whakarewarewa, home to the Tuhourangi/Ngati Wahiao tribes, for a glimpse into the history, traditions, and current life of the Maori.  The ancestors of the Maori came to New Zealand at least eight centuries ago from East Polynesia, traveling in ocean-going canoes known as waka.  They traveled throughout New Zealand with many settling in the valley between two impressive lakes surrounded by volcanoes and geothermal activity, today known as Rotorua.

The Maori in the Whakarewarewa village continue to live in harmony with this unique environment.  They bath and soak in the heated waters and cook underground in dug out ovens, affectionately known as “The Village Crockpots”.  Through dance, language, and tradition, the Maori culture delighted us, but it was their passion to fight for reclamation and now unity that truly impressed us.

Finally, Jonathan would kill me if I concluded my posts on New Zealand without mentioning our enchanting day spent at Hobbiton.  For those of you who are not Lord of the Rings fans, this is the set used in Peter Jackson’s movie renditions of the Lord of the Rings trilogy and The Hobbit.  For those of you who are fans… be jealous!  While exploring the impressive movie set and looking out on a real life shire, I could not help but think, of course Hobbits would live in New Zealand!  Only in the comfort and safety of New Zealand countryside could anything with Tolkien’s descriptors for hobbits: a height of between two and four feet, a tendency towards chubbiness, a delight when wearing bright colors, a love for food and drink (eating a mere six times per day), a love of laughter and celebration, and truly impressed by good tilled earth exist.  Click on the photos for a closer look.

Delightful does not even begin to explain our time in New Zealand.  I hope that everyone gets a chance to explore this country someday!  Without a doubt the land and the people will be waiting to welcome you with a hearty “Kia Ora!”, (translated as “be well”) as they show off their country.