Though our time in Israel was brief and we were regrettably unable to go to the West Bank or Gaza due to time constraints and safety (my cousin Bobby unfortunately had a pretty intense experience – he is okay though!), we tried to absorb as much as we could through conversations with both Jewish and Arab locals, the sights and sounds around us, and debriefing sessions most nights. Our most interesting conversations were with Yuvall, our Airbnb host in Haifa who is a non-religious gay Jew, and with Suraida, an Arab native of Nazareth who has seen years of transition.
Despite feeling like Yuvall was far more hip than I was, I felt comfortable asking and discussing just about anything with him as we sat on his balcony sipping cappuccinos and he rolled a cigarette.
Yuvall seemed honest and genuine with his conversation, though we were limited in depth, mostly due to my ignorance. He started with his explanation of the Zionist movement that was started by Herzl, less for religious reasons, but more to find a place of refuge for the Jewish (through ethnicity and culture) people. Tolerance towards others was a pillar of Herzl’s movement. However, as Yuvall put it, “when Herzl gathered the leaders of the Jewish population around the world including Russia, Poland, and the Middle East, his goal of tolerance was quickly stifled by these strongly religious leaders”. This was the last of the tolerant movement.
After the Zionist movement took effect, displacement of those already living in the area occurred. Sound familiar? This was yet another “change of hands” for this contested strip of land against the sea. Once Israel declared independence in 1948, Jews from all over the world started migrating to Israel. This lead to an intensified Arab-Israeli conflict with the Israeli Defense Force (IDF) occupying areas once strictly Arab and protected by Arab countries including Egypt, Jordan, and Syria. After a brief battle in 1967, Israel had officially annexed Gaza, the West bank, and East Jerusalem and residents were given the option of applying for Israeli citizenship. Since then, the country’s history has been one of tit-for-tat battles and conflicts including hostage situations, landmine placements, and suicide bombings. Yuvall remembered the signing of the Israeli-Palestinian Agreement witnessed by Bill Clinton in 1995 where Palestinian leadership could relocate to occupied territories including Gaza and the West Bank in return for Palestinians promising to abstain from use of terror. Despite this treaty, suicide bombings continued and eventually Israel had barriers constructed around Gaza and the West Bank increasing the separation between Israel and the Palestinian Territories. And that is about where we stand today – half the world accepting Palestine as its own country and the other half, including the US stating it continues to be occupied territory. Yuvall didn’t have much to say as he saw it as black and white – the land is Israel and it is currently occupied by Palestinians. Throughout our conversation, Yuvall was quick to differentiate between Arab Israelis (those who had accepted citizenship) and Palestinians (those living in the West Bank and Gaza). He didn’t state much of an opinion of either group, however it was clear he was more comfortable discussing the Arab Israelis. I left the conversation feeling that the fighting that continues today is less about religious differences between Muslims and Jews (as I had once thought), but is more territorial between two cultures, Jewish and Palestinian, both claiming land they believe to be rightfully theirs through history and battles won.
When we spoke specifically about Haifa, I asked if it was progressive like Tel Aviv or more divided like other cities in Israel. Yuvall’s response: “No, Haifa is not so much progressive as it is tolerant”. I asked him to explain and he explained that due to the way the city is arranged on the hill, different religions and cultures are intermixed and have been since the establishment of Haifa. Unlike Jerusalem where tensions rise between different sections of the city where different cultures congregate, Haifa stays tolerant out of necessity. He said, in his apartment complex alone there is a Hassidic family, a Muslim couple, a Russian Christian, and him and his partner. If intolerance was accepted in Haifa, without “places to retreat to”, the city wouldn’t be able to function. It made sense and I suppose in an area of such unrest, necessary tolerance is a good place to start.
Suraida is an Arab Christian business woman who manages the hostel we stayed at in Nazareth. Nazareth is a mostly Arab city split between Christians and Muslims. Suraida put away her laptop, poured a cup of tea, and sat down with us after breakfast one morning to give us the history of her hostel – her great grandfather’s house over 200 years old. When it was clear there was more to this hostel than the transition from family home to dorm facilities, we began to probe for a deeper history. She explained that in 1948, after the Arab-Israeli War and establishment of Israel as a nation, many of the Arabs living in Nazareth (and elsewhere in Israel) left for Lebanon, Syria, and Jordan afraid for their safety and the unknown. Those who stayed watched the city turn dark with shops closing and increased danger and drug traffic. She is proud of her family for staying on their land, despite making moral sacrifices such as “succumbing to Israeli citizenship”. The general argument in Israel seemed less important to her as she stated “It is like the chicken or the egg when asking who had this land first”. However, what was clearly dear to Suraida was helping her town of Nazareth slowly return from a dead and dangerous city, to one that tourists feel welcome and locals feel safe. The town fights with the media and opinions of other cities in Israel as she tries desperately to show the Nazareth is alive and well. Jonathan and I couldn’t help but think that fights with the media and outside opinion can expand to include the whole of Israel.
Unfortunately, we never had a chance to talk with a Palestinian and therefore, can’t help but feel like we only received a part of the story. But I believe any conversation and discussion had with a local member in this controversial country is valuable and shares a bit of the flavor making up community. I expected a bit more conflict and controversy, however both people we spent time speaking to encouraged tolerance and hope for growth in the future. Though violence rears its head too often, especially at the gates and borders of Gaza and the West Bank, it seems to be from extremists who are outward with their belief that this contested land belongs to them. Quietly and sadly, however, those living away from the borders seem to believe it as well and show it through a silent prejudice and in small discriminatory remarks.
Jonathan and I had multiple conversations about our experience in Israel trying to find common ground with a history of race discrimination we are familiar with in the United States. In Israel, the prejudice and discrimination is not based solely on race, but on religion and the culture associated with that religion. It is a fear of the unknown that transcends race here. Skin color plays a minimal role in the tension. It is involved only through the stereotyping that happens when people associate certain races with certain religions. Both sides are guilty of stereotyping what they hate, which in this case is the unfamiliar religion and the associated culture.
We both came to Israel, interested in the truth of the media’s portrayal of the violence and discontent shown in America. In all honesty, it seemed like a lot of blown up, pardon my language, bull shit. The “assault” from the Palestinians does not seem nearly as extreme as Israel and the US make it sound. There is really minimal “threat” (truthfully, they don’t have the means) and the response to any “threat” tends to be exaggerated by the IDF and the media. For example, an IDF soldier was stabbed in the hand while checking an ID one of the nights we stayed in Jerusalem. We watched as multiple IDF vehicles were deployed and read later that the Palestinian boy was shot multiple times with media coverage over-stating their headlines with “Palestinian Attack!!” I am not sure how accurate our observations and thoughts are in the big picture, but after our brief time here, these are the conclusions we eventually came to.
That was then end of the post… until we had one more encounter that made Jonathan and me stop, think, and discuss. On our way back to Israel from Jordan, we were stopped by security as they asked to search Jonathan’s bag. They found a copy of the Quran, and what followed was a 30 minute interrogation of Jonathan regarding his past work, travel plans, and his knowledge of the book. Jonathan stayed cool the entire time, with obviously nothing to hide, and I sat there and watched my boyfriend get profiled based on a religious book in his pack. We are both white Americans who are not affected by the racial profiling that happens in America. For the first time in our lives, we encountered this inappropriate response and left thinking, “That was completely ridiculous”. I can only imagine it feeling worse for anyone of color in the US who has been in similar situations. It is not fair and it is not right.
Final thoughts… Why can’t they all just get along? Because thousands of years of history stand behind this fight and it will never go away. The situation seems self-perpetuating where it is an all-or-none mentality. Both sides have zero trust in the other, for good reason, as both sides are not truly trustworthy. Building trust in an environment where one side is feeling attacked and the other side oppressed is nearly impossible. Yuvall’s perception begins to ring true, and I reluctantly consider necessary tolerance as my hope for Israel’s future.